Unleashed Reading…Helpful articles for healthy, happy pets

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Local

Emergency

• Animal Emergency Clinic (Tacoma) 24 hours/7 days wk.
• Animal Poison Control Center

Books @ Dogwise.com
Anything by any of these authors is excellent. These are just a few of my favorites.

• After you Get Your Puppy by Ian Dunbar
• How To Teach an Old Dog New Tricks by Ian Dunbar
• The Perfect Puppy by Gwen Bailey
• Canine Body Language, A photographic Guide by Brenda Aloff
• Complete Idiots Guide to Positive Dog Training by Pamela Dennison
• The Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson (This entire book is a MUST read, but the first 2 pages of chapter four are poignant)
• Excel-erated Learning by Pamela J. Reid Ph.D.

Other Publications
These newsletters are published by the top Veterinary colleges and Experts in the country. They are easy to read and packed with information on health, behavior & training. Well worth the subscription price.

• The Whole-Dog-Journal.com (a monthly guide to natural dog care and training)
• Your Dog (Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine @ Tufts University)
• Dog watch (Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine)

Website

• Positivedogs.com – Great links and articles from; Feeding a raw diet to the Truth about commercial pet foods, to training & more.
• doggonesafe.com – A non-profit organization dedicated to dog bite prevention. Many great articles for parents.
• dogStardaily.com – A daily Magazine for Dog Owners

We come when called…when your dog won’t.

“Come!!! I said COME!!” stomp, stomp, stomp…*@!!#  Dog.

Sound familiar?

Coming when called is the most critical of behaviors in my opinion. Not only can it be a life or death command, but nothing makes us angrier than having to stomp out in the wet grass in our slippers after our dog.

Kidding aside, if you have a dog that comes when called, regardless of the temptations and distractions the environment offers, then you have a dog you can go anywhere with, on leash or unleashed! And I must say…there is nothing better. I’ve attended seminars, conferences, researched, read, experimented with and put alot of thought into my Come When Called…Everytime! program.

A dog with great “trust” and motivation to work with the owner not against them, will have much more freedom…to be a dog. This program will take your dog through progressions of training, enabling them to come away from distractions.

Yea, life with your dog just got way better.

The verdict is still out on the exact structure of dog pack hierarchy. The idea that dogs follow a linear unyielding pack order was conceived from the inaccurate study of wolves in captivity done over a half century ago.
Most scientists agree however, that canine hierarchy is much more “fluid” than the wolf pack model that has been the accepted ideology for decades.

Your dogs’ may have one order when they’re inside and a different order outside. One dog may be dominant around toys, and another is dominant when the coveted resource is food. Even this can change depending on the dogs’ needs and motivations at the time!

Dominance = Priority Access to Valued Resources

Dominance is not a personality trait, rather it’s the state of a relationship with another dog or human. If a dog is dominant with respect to another dog, then he has more access to valued resources. If a dog is displaying dominant overtures, then he wants more access to the resource.

This is one of those misconceptions made by owners. They usually feel like the dog making the big ugly display of aggression is the “top” dog, but a true leader is calm quiet and confident…no need for all that bluster & bluff!
It’s the “wannabe” who makes the most noise.
(Sound like any bosses you’ve had in the past??)

Priority resources according to a dog is anything they need (survival) or want (pleasure):
Safety, food, high value treats (bones/chewies), toys, space (personal and territorial), people (owner), sleeping & comfort areas (the couch or bed), attention/petting, and other motivators such as tug or fetch, etc.

Your role, as the human in the household should be to dole out these resources. You are the keeper of the resources, which therefore makes you ‘Top’ dog.

I have the ’stuff’ – Me boss!
You want the ’stuff’ – You follower!

I know…that’s probably a bit simplistic but it really does not need to be difficult.
The canines in the household should be informed that ALL of the  highest rankings have been taken by you and the rest of the family including your children (and cats). This should make it easier on you and them. By simply taking the “lead” role from your dogs you will almost immediately start seeing a calmer, better behaved dog or group of dogs.

How do you do that? For starters, you don’t follow the old advice of giving food and attention to the “Alpha” dog first. That only reinforces your dogs’ to be bullies. And really, do you think because your dog exitedly runs through a door first he sees himself as king of the castle…or could it be something much less sinister as- he’s JUST excited to experience ‘what’s next!’.

That certainly doesn’t mean it’s fine for your dog to blast through you at will, to the contrary,
let’s teach them some:
Foundation Manners and  Attention, Focus & Self-Control
I don’t care if my buddies go through the door first, eat first or get on the bed…as long as I’ve given them the “OK” to do so.

Teach your dogs that speedy compliance to your cues (commands) gets them good “stuff” (remember the resources).
Great things happen by being polite and nothing good happens by being pushy with your family, guests or each other.

Welcome to effective, calm & enjoyable ‘dog’ leadership.

Understanding your dog’s past may give you some insight into their current behaviors…and knowing what’s coming in their future may help you be prepared to handle it right.

The new puppies cannot see, hear, regulate their own body temperatures, eliminate without stimulation and are totally dependent upon their mother.
No emotional development, social attachment, or learning takes  place during this period.  Puppies’ brain waves remain constant  whether sleeping or awake.

A study has shown that mildly stressing the pups during the first five weeks develops dogs that are superior in learning and competitive situations, are able to handle stress better and are more outgoing.
(Mild physical stress at any age will actually increase the size of the brain.)

Transition Period 13-21 days:

Puppies’ ears and eyes will gradually open. They will begin to hear and will respond to taste and smell. This is the time to introduce novel stimuli to the whelping box.

Awareness Period – 21 to 23 DAYS :

The puppy is able to use their sense of sight and hearing.
Learning begins!
There are significant changes in brain waves during this period and pups are now able to learn from experiences and retain what they have learned.

They are fully alert to their environment and will startle easily at sudden sounds and movements.  Avoid  loud noises or sudden changes during this period.  Negative events can permanently imprint on pups during this week.  No vacume cleaners, hair dryers, etc.
Social bonding begins to occur during this week.

Canine Socialization Period  (3wks-7wks) :
The puppy learns specific behaviors that make him a dog such as barking, chasing, biting and body postures.

Play fighting becomes increasingly intense.  Pups are developing problem solving abilities, physical co-ordination and bite inhibition. Puppies require plenty of playtime with littermates, so they can socialize and develop pack hierarchy through play.
They also learn to accept discipline from mama dog and to use submissive postures to appease.
Leaving the litter before 7 weeks can affect the puppy’s ability to get along with other dogs later and they will likely have trouble learning to inhibit the force of their bite and except discipline from their human family.

During this time puppies will begin to move to the far corners of their bed, box, or pen to urinate and defecate.  House breaking can begin!
Occasionally isolate puppies to prepare them for separation.
Puppy’s rate of mental development will now depend on the complexity of their environment. Exposure to a variety of noises and different floor surfaces is important.
Begin positive training sessions at 5 weeks. Yes—5 weeks!
The brain waves of the puppy are the same as a mature dog, but the puppy is a clean slate.
Puppies can begin simple training routines using food lures, verbal praise & attention at this time.  This is also the prime socialization period.  Introduce new people, especially children.  Introduce situations that will stimulate problem solving behavior – tunnels, cardboard boxes, gates, steps, fences, logs, etc.  Allow pups to have successes and reinforce these successes with food.

Fear Imprint Subperiod occurs between 8 and 10 weeks:

Experiences a puppy perceives as traumatic during this time are generalized and may affect him his entire life.
Puppies should not be shipped during this period, elective surgery should be put off until the 12th week, and necessary visits to the vet should be made fun.
Keep training short, positive & fun.

Human Socialization Period (7 wks-12 wks):
(This is when we step in and can have the greatest impact on our dogs!)

The puppy is enlarging his social awareness and bonding outside of the litter should occur. This is the best time to place a puppy in his new home.

Mental abilities are fully formed but the pups lack experience.
This is the optimum time to teach Puppy Manners and is, in fact, the period of fastest learning. Research has shown that behaviors can be shaped and modified most easily during times when learning is occurring most quickly.  Training during this time will actually increase the capacity to learn by increasing brain cells in the appropriate regions of the brain.
Bladder and bowel control is developed and pups are capable of sleeping through the night without an accident.
Note:  If socialized later than 14 weeks, (or between 12 -14 weeks in some dogs) shyness or aggressiveness may dominate behavior the rest of his life.
This is thought to be the #1 reason for behavior problems…lack of exposure to people, especially kids, dogs, etc.
Just because your puppy lives with another dog or there are 2 teenagers in the house DOES NOT mean he has been socialized. It needs to be several new dogs and people per week if not per day. This definitely takes some effort–but you basically only have a couple of weeks and then the window of opportunity closes. Procrastination may lead to extremely difficult fear/aggressive behaviors later.

Seniority Classification Period (3 to 4 months):
Otherwise known as the “age of the cutting’ teeth and apron strings. The pup is trying to figure out who is boss. If littermates are still together, there is intense competition.
So long as you provide structure, control and leadership, this transition should be relatively painless.

By 16 weeks of age the brain of a puppy will reach 80% of full development and his emotional makeup is fully developed and cemented for life, barring desensitization.
Do not put off training…you’re literally on the clock.

Teach a great RECALL and practice it everyday!!  Do this before pup enters the “flight period” at about 16 weeks.
Flight Instinct Period (4-8 months) :
Characterized by independence and wilfulness, this stage can last from a few days to several weeks and can occur anytime during this period.
Your once ‘obedient’ pup may not hang on your every word.
They may not play fetch even though they once did.
They may even forget “potty training” .
The pups will also be uncomfortable because their adult teeth are growing in.
Be aware these changes are coming, stay calm…and like all teenagers’ behaviors–
this too will pass. Thank goodness!
Note: A general persistence in behavior problems may occur during this time as well, and corrections become more difficult.
(Most of my phone calls for help come during this time.)

Second Fear Imprint period (6-14 months) :
(This stage leaves owners scratching their head at their dogs’ weird behaviors)

This fear period corresponds with hormonal changes & growth spurts.

To many owners’ dismay, (and even with stellar socialization early on) your usually confident pup may display fearfulness of new situations, objects, people or other dogs.
Many dogs will show a rise in their level of aggression/reactivity  during this time. They may become protective and territorial, and may make a new attempt to test owners.
Some individuals will pass through this period faster than others, often with no noticeable problems.  Others may display marked changes in behavior in strange situations.
Reinforce the behaviors you want; do not inadvertantly reinforce fearfulness by coddling, but also avoid punishing timidness or “forcing” them to face their fears.

A firm, patient leader is always what we should strive to be in any stage of our dogs’ development, but that resolve will never be put to the test more than this time in your relationship with your dog.
Postpone extremely stressful or traumatic experiences for dogs that appear to be in this fear imprint period.

Young Adulthood (18-24 months) :
Many dogs will show a rise in their level of aggression during this time. They may become protective and territorial, and may make a new attempt to test owners.
Also, if you missed any socialization or exposure early on to certain things, that may start to surface as well.

Emmy let me know a while back at Bradley Lake that I hadn’t socialized her to horses. They were giving free carriage rides, and little “miss obedience”  had herself a barking fit. Because Em and I have a history of getting her over her many demons, I was quickly able to convince her that horses made chicken appear. Who Knew!!?
(story of:Emmy’s aggressive past)

None of us is perfect and we’re bound to miss something somewhere…but hopefully understanding the physiological and emotional stages our dogs are going through, will give you the patience to handle the situations better.

Please call or email if you’d like guidance through any of these stages.
An hour of training—A lifetime of benefits!

Resource/food guarding, on-leash reactivity to other dogs, nervous around kids, and on and on and on..

This is a huge subject and unfortunately, all too common. Often times however, the behavior seems far worse than it is, and is a fairly straight forward remedy. Other times, well, it’s not so straight forward.

I know you’re embarrassed, frustrated, and wish he would just STOP it.

This is a behavioral issue near and dear to me. My 2 year old aussie/ border collie, Emmy, had many reactive issues. I was certainly in denial early on, “how could my own dog be aggressive?” It forced me to do many, many hours of reading, research and seminars on the subject.

Since those early days I now know that much of her behavior is genetic. Other manifestations of her breeding are a low tactile/high opposition reflex. This basically means she doesn’t necessarily like to be touched, especially by strangers, has restraint issues and is extremely space sensitive.

This is true not only of many herding breeds but more dogs than you would think. Labrador and Golden Retreivers tend to propagate the Myth that every dog should be friendly, happy and outgoing to everyone in every situation, all the time. Wow, that’s alot to ask. We don’t expect that from a cat, or horse or any other animal. Heck, are we friendly, happy and outgoing, to everyone, all of the time…not me.

I’m not saying that it’s okay for your dog to act aggressively or “over the top” whenever he feels the need. To the contrary, let’s teach him alternative ways to deal with his fears, anxiety, hyper motivation, etc. as well as showing you ways to be a better advocate and leader for your buddy.

There’s enough information about aggression and related issues to give a seminar here, but for now suffice to say, there are ways to help most cases.

Emmy and I now live a reactive free life. She can be off leash anywhere without me worrying about an inappropriate response, loves other dogs and doesn’t mind the occassional pet from a stranger. I also use her during some of the training sessions with aggressive, “over the top” dogs to act as the neutral, well mannerd, calm dog. She’s got great body language which helps to put the other dog at ease.

We’ve come along way for sure. Maybe we can help you. If I feel like a professional other than myself would be more appropriate for your case I also have some fantastic referrals. Drop me an email or give me a call. Let’s talk about some options.

Bark Bark Bark

Characteristics of a Barker

Studies have been done to try to determine which dogs are more likely to be barkers. Although there was no difference in the percentage of excessive barkers between males and females, there was a breed difference. Hounds, Terriers, and some herding breeds tend to bark more. That is not surprising, since this is one of the characteristics for which they were bred. Excessive barking can occur in purebred dogs as well as mixed breeds.

Reasons for Barking

Many excessively barking dogs do so out of boredom, loneliness, and frustration.  Other dogs bark out of fear or defense of their property. Being located near a busy sidewalk or other stimulus will cause many dogs to bark a lot. And, as discusses previously, some breeds have been bred to be vocal, so it can be difficult to eliminate an inherited trait.
Barking is a perfectly natural canine behavior and is one of the most difficult to modify, as it is a self-reinforcing activity for many dogs.

How to Reduce or Eliminate Barking

Walk and train daily! A physically and mentally exercised dog simply does not bark as much.

“But my dogs have a big back yard to run in all day.”

This does not take the place of putting a leash on your dog and going for a walk. Typically, any activity your dog does in the yard is unfocused, often destructive and a nuisance (barking) which they are rehearsing daily and being self-rewarded for.  They tend to become hyper-vigilant to every sight and sound when unsupervised, which can lead to excessive barking in other scenarios.

Walking at your side challenges and fulfills many of the natural canine instincts. It is mentally challenging as they learn to defer to you and exhibit attention, focus and self-control. They’re exposed to new sights, smells and stimuli, which is great for continued socialization and confidence building (two of the biggest reasons for excessive barking).

The walk is structured, and gives a sense of calm to your dog if done consistently. If you only manage 1-2 walks a week of course your pal will be overly stimulated, hyper-motivated and act as if he’s a maniac, on walks and at home. If you’re avoiding walks with your dog because of his leash manners or reactivity to other people or animals, then those are the behaviors that need addressed.

Mental activity such as daily short training sessions for foundation manners uses 25% of the body’s energy. Think how tired you are after a busy day at work. Even if you’ve been sitting all day, brain work is draining. Remember, a tired dog is a quiet dog.

Give them back a job other than barking at every sound and leaf that blows across the yard.   Put the food bowl away, and let them work for their calories.  (See Get Rid of the Food Bowl for a Better Behaved dog).

Other helpful techniques:

• Train a “quiet” command. Say “quiet” or “enough” wait for 1 second of silence and reward. Lengthen the duration of silence slowly and always praise your dog’s efforts.
• It’s easier to modify the environment than the dog. If he’s yapping at passerby’s or delivery people, then it becomes a cycle of bark/reward. Here comes the mailman…”Woof, woof, woof!”, And there he goes. HA! Showed him. The dog is reinforced time and time again as people walk by the house. This can set the stage for hyper-vigilance as we discussed earlier. Close the curtains or confine him to another part of the house.  Problem solved.

“He starts barking as soon as I get on the phone!”

* “Woof woof”, you look at them, maybe say something to them. The very nature of barking gets your attention, even if it’s just a look, you’ve reinforced that behavior. The dog has learned to bark in variety of situations, many of them inappropriate, to get something it desires. Remember to acknowledge and praise them when they’re quiet and ignore them when they are barking for attention. If they’ve been successful with the bark/reward game for any length of time than it will take longer. Actually it will get worse before it gets better. They will go through something called an extinction burst. Because barking has been successful in the past, but suddenly doesn’t work anymore…they will bark louder and longer to achieve their goal. Knowing this should give you the wherewithal to endure and ignore! If a behavior isn’t reinforced it will extinguish.

* Yelling may reinforce your dogs barking as well. It tends to add to the excitement or anxiety of the already intense situation, and make it worse. If you need to interrupt the noise try dropping a can of pennies on the floor or smacking a counter top, then immediately redirect him to another activity.

* Train an incompatible behavior. My Cavalier King Charles Spaniel barks when people drive into the driveway. I’m teaching him to go to the porch, sit and wait until I’ve given a release cue. It gives him something to think about and tends to diffuse the vocalizations. Inside he is to go to a certain spot in the entry and sit. It’s a process, so be patient and consistent.

* I always recommend training first but the citronella spray collar has worked effectively in conjunction with a training program for many clients. There are also many high frequency collars and devices that may work for your dog as well.


These are just a few techniques to get you started. I understand that every dog and situation is different, and that there are few behaviors as frustrating as excessive, incessant barking.

I most often see this in small breeds and rescues, but it can certainly afflict any dog. It’s heart breaking, pathetic and extremely frustrating for all. There are many layers of treatment to address this behavior, and owner dedication and patience is a must, but often the problem can be remedied.

Here are a few tips:

1) More exercise. There’s a reason I put this first on the list. Pent up energy comes out one way or another, usually in a negative form. Get up early and walk your dog for 20-30 minutes. Exercise raises seratonin levels (the neurochemical in the brain that promotes a sense of calm) and can help reduce anxiety.

2) No excessive attention prior to departure or upon return. Keep “hellos and goodbyes” low -key.
Most behaviorists recommend ignoring the dog completely for 10-20 minutes when you leave and come home. I know  this is difficult, but essential to get your stressed out buddy over this thing.  The key here is that you don’t acknowledge them until they are calm…If that’s 3-4 minutes, than that’s when you can say ‘hello’—calmly!

3) Change your departure routine. Grab your coat and keys and then just go sit down. Walk out the door, then come back 10 seconds later, like nothing happened. Modify the sequence of events so your dog doesn’t get a chance to even start the anxiety symptoms let alone get into a full-blown panic attack. This starts to change the mental habituation that accompanies the physical manifestations. Practice on the weekends as well when you have more time to dedicate to  desensitizing your dog to your leaving.

4) Be careful not to reward insecurity or timidity. Act as though everything is fine. Does this sound familiar? “Mama loves you –Be  a good boy– it’s OK!”      Yep, we’ve all been there, but QUIT IT. It can actually become a cue or a switch to intensify the anxiety.

5) Weaken her dependency on family members when you are home. This doesn’t mean you can’t interact with her, just don’t be so excessive and accessible with attention and affection. The key here is to get your pal calm and confident on their own, whether you’re home or not. This again is difficult on family members. Think of it as ‘tough” love.

6) Natural remedies such as Rescue Remedy  or a Dog Appeasing Pheromone Collar can calm anxious behavior and gently take the edge off.

7) For severe cases, Anti anxiety medications are often used, (talk to your vet about appropriate options) and in conjunction with the other behavior modification techniques, your dog could be more mentally and physically healthy and happy.

…for a happier, better behaved dog

Think about where dogs evolved from thousands of years ago. They used to have to hunt and scavenge for food most of the hours of the day using the innate senses bestowed upon them. Once they caught or found something, their energies would be directed at dissecting and consuming it.

Now we put the same, pre-measured food in the same bowl, in the same spot at the same time each day. Or worse, leave it down all day like a buffet. Boring!

Hardly surprising then, they have found other ways to fill the hours. Excessive barking, destroying furniture and shoes, digging up your flower beds, anxiety behaviors, and so on. We’ve essentially taken away their job, in an attempt to make their life better.

When I have a consultation with a new client, regardless of the behavior I’m there to solve, one of the first questions I ask is how, when and where the dog receives their food.

Most dog breeds were bred to perform a job for humans, most dogs have some level of prey drive, and ALL dogs like to eat. I’m not buying the excuse “my dog isn’t food motivated.” As long as there are no medical conditions inhibiting appetite, eating is a survival instinct and dogs want grub.

Have you ever seen your dog play with their food, hide it, dump it or toss it around? They’re trying to make it more interesting. Give them back their job and make finding calories more challenging.

Kongs

Kongs are a must in every dogs home. They’re a solid rubber, hollow toy perfect for filling with food. Start very simply by filling it with your dogs kibble and a few higher value chunks of food like chicken or low fat turkey dogs. As your dog investigates and moves the Kong around, food falls out. They soon learn how to expediently remove the contents.

Once they start to understand that this is their new food bowl you can start making it more challenging.  Fill with kibble about two-thirds full and top off with something squishy like Kong Paste or peanut butter. Now your pal learns to lick out the soft stuff to get to the kibble. At this point you can go two directions. Either freeze the concoction to make the top layer harder to get through or add less kibble and more soft food.

When I add more soft food to the Kong I start to use healthier choices such as a great quality canned food, cottage cheese or scrambled eggs. If you go with more soft stuff don’t start freezing yet. Allow them to be successful extracting it at room temperature first.  For the dogs that never really get to that inch or so of soft food at the very bottom, I simply fill the bottom third with kibble.

Both my dogs are “kong-a-holics” and always prefer a challenging Kong to a boring, easy bowl of food. My favorite Kong stuffing recipes for Emmy and Cody are slightly scrambled eggs, mixed with kibble. The omelet like goo goes in the Kong, and the Kong goes in the freezer for several hours.  I also keep several cans of high quality dog food on hand and layer tuna & cottage cheese with it in the Kong. Again it goes in the freezer. Freezing makes it less messy and takes longer for the dog to work at it.  If I need to be gone several hours I make 3 Kongs each dog. If I would like them to be quiet for an hour while I work with clients I’ll give them 1 each.

Feeding Kong’s in the crate is great way to give a positive association with being alone. For new puppies that need to be put in a laundry room for several hours, this is another safe and positive association. For appropriate size and strength go to Kongcompany.com or ask the experts at the Health food stores I’ve recommended in training resources & tools.

Chicken Feed Method

Dogs are expert “sniffers” That’s the natural way they used to find food. Instead of putting their breakfast in a food bowl, take their morning portion of kibble and toss it all over the back yard or in every room of the house. It keeps them mentally focused & stimulated making sure they’ve tracked down each calorie. And when they’re busy hunting kibble, they’re not busy digging, barking and destroying furniture.

Come & Find It

This is a great training exercise, as well as an interactive way to feed your dog. You can even be sitting in your favorite chair watching the news while you do it.

Measure out your dog’s meal and place it in a cup or bowl next to you. Toss a few pieces of kibble to the other side of the room and say “find it!” or “get it!” Let them hunt it up themselves. If you keep showing them where it is or repeating your cue they’ll learn to rely on it. Soon they will become self reliant and their instincts will improve. When they find it say “Cody, Come” in a cheerful voice (say it only once). When they come back to you feed a few pieces w/ lots of verbal praise as well. Then toss a few and say “find it!”, again. This is an excellent way to practice the recall and interactively feed your pal. Great rainy night game as well.

Tip: if they insist on jumping on you or trying to get to the food simply pick up the food, stand up and leave without ANY emotion. They’ll soon learn to respect your space and understand that as their fair consistent leader, you’ll be in charge of doling out the good stuff.

Buster Cube, Talk-to-me ball, & other interactive feeding toys

Are fun & suitable for filling with kibble.

Pack leader (Dominance = Priority access to resources)

Portion out your dogs daily allowance of food for the day and put it in baggie. Keep several pieces in a pocket and throughout the day ask your dog to do simple commands. Sometimes you’ll deliver food, sometimes a game of fetch and sometimes verbal praise. He’ll never know what the reward will be only that he enjoys being asked. Every once in a while I’ll just toss a small handful out of the blue, and say “find it!”

I keep training and playing equally exciting and rewarding for my dogs. Sit gets a game of tug, come gets “find it!”, and stay gets a belly rub.

Mix it up; let your dog enjoy working for his daily meals, as well as playtime and attention.

Get rid of the food bowl…for your happier, well behaved dog.