Archive for February, 2010

Recommended Resources & Training Tools

Tools

Local

Emergency

BooksDogwise.com
Anything by any of these authors is excellent. These are just a few of my favorites.

Other Publications
These newsletters are published by the top Veterinary colleges and Experts in the country. They are easy to read and packed with information on health, behavior & training. Well worth the subscription price.

Website

  • Positivedogs.com – Great links and articles from; Feeding a raw diet to the Truth about commercial pet foods, to training & more.
  • doggonesafe.com – A non-profit organization dedicated to dog bite prevention. Many great articles for parents.
  • dogStardaily.com – A daily Magazine for Dog Owners
February 12, 2010 Posted Under: Safety & Health, Tips   Read More

Come When Called…Everytime!

We come when called…when your dog won’t.

“Come!!! I said COME!!” stomp, stomp, stomp…*@!!#  Dog.

Sound familiar?

Coming when called is the most critical of behaviors in my opinion. Not only can it be a life or death command, but nothing makes us angrier than having to stomp out in the wet grass in our slippers after our dog.

Kidding aside, if you have a dog that comes when called, regardless of the temptations and distractions the environment offers, then you have a dog you can go anywhere with, on leash or unleashed! And I must say…there is nothing better. I’ve attended seminars, conferences, researched, read, experimented with and put alot of thought into my Come When Called…Everytime! program.

A dog with great “trust” and motivation to work with the owner not against them, will have much more freedom…to be a dog. This program will take your dog through progressions of training, enabling them to come away from distractions.

Yea, life with your dog just got way better.

February 4, 2010 Posted Under: Dog Behavior, Tips, Training   Read More

Are you the pack leader?

The verdict is still out on the exact structure of dog pack hierarchy. The idea that dogs follow a linear unyielding pack order was conceived from the inaccurate study of wolves in captivity done over a half century ago.
Most scientists agree however, that canine hierarchy is much more “fluid” than the wolf pack model that has been the accepted ideology for decades.

Your dogs’ may have one order when they’re inside and a different order outside. One dog may be dominant around toys, and another is dominant when the coveted resource is food. Even this can change depending on the dogs’ needs and motivations at the time!

Dominance = Priority Access to Valued Resources

Dominance is not a personality trait, rather it’s the state of a relationship with another dog or human. If a dog is dominant with respect to another dog, then he has more access to valued resources. If a dog is displaying dominant overtures, then he wants more access to the resource.

This is one of those misconceptions made by owners. They usually feel like the dog making the big ugly display of aggression is the “top” dog, but a true leader is calm quiet and confident…no need for all that bluster & bluff!
It’s the “wannabe” who makes the most noise.
(Sound like any bosses you’ve had in the past??)

Priority resources according to a dog is anything they need (survival) or want (pleasure):
Safety, food, high value treats (bones/chewies), toys, space (personal and territorial), people (owner), sleeping & comfort areas (the couch or bed), attention/petting, and other motivators such as tug or fetch, etc.

Your role, as the human in the household should be to dole out these resources. You are the keeper of the resources, which therefore makes you ‘Top’ dog.

I have the ‘stuff’ – Me boss!
You want the ‘stuff’ – You follower!

I know…that’s probably a bit simplistic but it really does not need to be difficult.
The canines in the household should be informed that ALL of the  highest rankings have been taken by you and the rest of the family including your children (and cats). This should make it easier on you and them. By simply taking the “lead” role from your dogs you will almost immediately start seeing a calmer, better behaved dog or group of dogs.

How do you do that? For starters, you don’t follow the old advice of giving food and attention to the “Alpha” dog first. That only reinforces your dogs’ to be bullies. And really, do you think because your dog exitedly runs through a door first he sees himself as king of the castle…or could it be something much less sinister as- he’s JUST excited to experience ‘what’s next!’.

That certainly doesn’t mean it’s fine for your dog to blast through you at will, to the contrary,
let’s teach them some:
Foundation Manners and  Attention, Focus & Self-Control
I don’t care if my buddies go through the door first, eat first or get on the bed…as long as I’ve given them the “OK” to do so.

Teach your dogs that speedy compliance to your cues (commands) gets them good “stuff” (remember the resources).
Great things happen by being polite and nothing good happens by being pushy with your family, guests or each other.

Welcome to effective, calm & enjoyable ‘dog’ leadership.

February 4, 2010 Posted Under: Dog Behavior, Tips   Read More

Stages of Canine development

Understanding your dog’s past may give you some insight into their current behaviors…and knowing what’s coming in their future may help you be prepared to handle it right.


Neonatal Period  0 – 13 day:

The new puppies cannot see, hear, regulate their own body temperatures, eliminate without stimulation and are totally dependent upon their mother.
No emotional development, social attachment, or learning takes  place during this period.  Puppies’ brain waves remain constant  whether sleeping or awake.

A study has shown that mildly stressing the pups during the first five weeks develops dogs that are superior in learning and competitive situations, are able to handle stress better and are more outgoing.
(Mild physical stress at any age will actually increase the size of the brain.)

Transition Period 13-21 days:

Puppies’ ears and eyes will gradually open. They will begin to hear and will respond to taste and smell. This is the time to introduce novel stimuli to the whelping box.

Awareness Period – 21 to 23 DAYS :

The puppy is able to use their sense of sight and hearing.
Learning begins!
There are significant changes in brain waves during this period and pups are now able to learn from experiences and retain what they have learned.

They are fully alert to their environment and will startle easily at sudden sounds and movements.  Avoid  loud noises or sudden changes during this period.  Negative events can permanently imprint on pups during this week.  No vacume cleaners, hair dryers, etc.
Social bonding begins to occur during this week.

Canine Socialization Period  (3wks-7wks) :
The puppy learns specific behaviors that make him a dog such as barking, chasing, biting and body postures.

Play fighting becomes increasingly intense.  Pups are developing problem solving abilities, physical co-ordination and bite inhibition. Puppies require plenty of playtime with littermates, so they can socialize and develop pack hierarchy through play.
They also learn to accept discipline from mama dog and to use submissive postures to appease.
Leaving the litter before 7 weeks can affect the puppy’s ability to get along with other dogs later and they will likely have trouble learning to inhibit the force of their bite and except discipline from their human family.

During this time puppies will begin to move to the far corners of their bed, box, or pen to urinate and defecate.  House breaking can begin!
Occasionally isolate puppies to prepare them for separation.
Puppy’s rate of mental development will now depend on the complexity of their environment. Exposure to a variety of noises and different floor surfaces is important.
Begin positive training sessions at 5 weeks. Yes—5 weeks!
The brain waves of the puppy are the same as a mature dog, but the puppy is a clean slate.
Puppies can begin simple training routines using food lures, verbal praise & attention at this time.  This is also the prime socialization period.  Introduce new people, especially children.  Introduce situations that will stimulate problem solving behavior – tunnels, cardboard boxes, gates, steps, fences, logs, etc.  Allow pups to have successes and reinforce these successes with food.

Fear Imprint Subperiod occurs between 8 and 10 weeks:

Experiences a puppy perceives as traumatic during this time are generalized and may affect him his entire life.
Puppies should not be shipped during this period, elective surgery should be put off until the 12th week, and necessary visits to the vet should be made fun.
Keep training short, positive & fun.

Human Socialization Period (7 wks-12 wks):
(This is when we step in and can have the greatest impact on our dogs!)


The puppy is enlarging his social awareness and bonding outside of the litter should occur. This is the best time to place a puppy in his new home.

Mental abilities are fully formed but the pups lack experience.
This is the optimum time to teach Puppy Manners and is, in fact, the period of fastest learning. Research has shown that behaviors can be shaped and modified most easily during times when learning is occurring most quickly.  Training during this time will actually increase the capacity to learn by increasing brain cells in the appropriate regions of the brain.
Bladder and bowel control is developed and pups are capable of sleeping through the night without an accident.
Note:  If socialized later than 14 weeks, (or between 12 -14 weeks in some dogs) shyness or aggressiveness may dominate behavior the rest of his life.
This is thought to be the #1 reason for behavior problems…lack of exposure to people, especially kids, dogs, etc.
Just because your puppy lives with another dog or there are 2 teenagers in the house DOES NOT mean he has been socialized. It needs to be several new dogs and people per week if not per day. This definitely takes some effort–but you basically only have a couple of weeks and then the window of opportunity closes. Procrastination may lead to extremely difficult fear/aggressive behaviors later.

Seniority Classification Period (3 to 4 months):
Otherwise known as the “age of the cutting’ teeth and apron strings. The pup is trying to figure out who is boss. If littermates are still together, there is intense competition.
So long as you provide structure, control and leadership, this transition should be relatively painless.

By 16 weeks of age the brain of a puppy will reach 80% of full development and his emotional makeup is fully developed and cemented for life, barring desensitization.
Do not put off training…you’re literally on the clock.

Teach a great RECALL and practice it everyday!!  Do this before pup enters the “flight period” at about 16 weeks.
Flight Instinct Period (4-8 months) :
Characterized by independence and wilfulness, this stage can last from a few days to several weeks and can occur anytime during this period.
Your once ‘obedient’ pup may not hang on your every word.
They may not play fetch even though they once did.
They may even forget “potty training” .
The pups will also be uncomfortable because their adult teeth are growing in.
Be aware these changes are coming, stay calm…and like all teenagers’ behaviors–
this too will pass. Thank goodness!
Note: A general persistence in behavior problems may occur during this time as well, and corrections become more difficult.
(Most of my phone calls for help come during this time.)

Second Fear Imprint period (6-14 months) :
(This stage leaves owners scratching their head at their dogs’ weird behaviors)

This fear period corresponds with hormonal changes & growth spurts.

To many owners’ dismay, (and even with stellar socialization early on) your usually confident pup may display fearfulness of new situations, objects, people or other dogs.
Many dogs will show a rise in their level of aggression/reactivity  during this time. They may become protective and territorial, and may make a new attempt to test owners.
Some individuals will pass through this period faster than others, often with no noticeable problems.  Others may display marked changes in behavior in strange situations.
Reinforce the behaviors you want; do not inadvertantly reinforce fearfulness by coddling, but also avoid punishing timidness or “forcing” them to face their fears.

A firm, patient leader is always what we should strive to be in any stage of our dogs’ development, but that resolve will never be put to the test more than this time in your relationship with your dog.
Postpone extremely stressful or traumatic experiences for dogs that appear to be in this fear imprint period.

Young Adulthood (18-24 months) :
Many dogs will show a rise in their level of aggression during this time. They may become protective and territorial, and may make a new attempt to test owners.
Also, if you missed any socialization or exposure early on to certain things, that may start to surface as well.


Emmy let me know a while back at Bradley Lake that I hadn’t socialized her to horses. They were giving free carriage rides, and little “miss obedience”  had herself a barking fit. Because Em and I have a history of getting her over her many demons, I was quickly able to convince her that horses made chicken appear. Who Knew!!?
(story of:Emmy’s aggressive past)

None of us is perfect and we’re bound to miss something somewhere…but hopefully understanding the physiological and emotional stages our dogs are going through, will give you the patience to handle the situations better.

Please call or email if you’d like guidance through any of these stages.
An hour of training—A lifetime of benefits!

February 2, 2010 Posted Under: Dog Behavior, Tips, Training   Read More