Bringing home a new baby is a big change for your family and your family dog. Implementing preparations and good management strategies can make babies & dogs a successful combination.

The following are guidelines for a safe introduction and the beginning of a special relationship.

The First 3 Months

~Introduce newborn item smells such as blankets or clothing.

~When baby initially comes home, say hello to your pal first without the baby in your arms. Of course your dog is going to be excited to see you and you don’t want his first association with baby to be “off”, NO, etc!!

~You’ll need extra help at this point to help keep up your dogs exercise routine, to keep him calm and relaxed.

~Make introductions to baby short and positive. You want to build a positive association so use lots of rewards and praise.

~Maybe this goes without saying but…keep soiled diapers contained in a tightly closed container. Oh-so tempting to dogs.

4-7 Months

~At this time in babies development they  will start moving around much more, crying, laughing and squealing.  Management and supervision is important along with continuing reinforcement in babies presence.

~Make sure to include your dog in walks, car rides, and family outings.

8-12 Months

~This is usually the toughest time to manage, as baby will start crawling/walking, pulling up on objects, exploring and are increasingly intrigued by tactile, visual and oral senses.

~Food bowls and babies do not mix!

~Babies should not be allowed to startle or climb on your dog. Toddlers have little control over their motor skills and can inadvertently throw things or hit the dog.

~The “Toddler Walk” looks a bit like mini Frankenstein and paired with multiple trips and falls may look alot like a horror movie coming right at them. Baby gates and supreme supervision are key strategies at this stage in your home.

~Model appropriate child-dog behavior, showing baby how to gently pet their dog. Praise both for successful interactions.

Remember, you are influencing the next generation of pet owners…Enjoy this special time with your newest arrival and the special relationship he or she will have with your good dog!

The following are guidelines for a safe introduction and the beginning of a special relationship.

Part One: Before Baby

Pregnancy 1-3 Months
Your puppy/dog should visit the Vet for a complete medical check-up. Spay or Neuter your dog if you haven’t already.
If your dogs’ obedience commands are less than stellar, give us a call to spruce them up. You may find their “goofy” ways tolerable now, but certainly will not once baby comes. You’ll literally have your hands full and will not be as able to “handle” your dogs mischievous behaviors.

Pregnancy 3-5 Months
Introduce the sounds of a baby and practice holding a baby-sized doll in your arms. Many dogs are so nosey about what we have in our possession, so get them accustomed to the phrase”it’s not your business.” Also, start walking your dog using the baby equipment such as the stroller. Avoid any corrective tones or admonishments during this time. We want your dog to have positive feelings towards anything that will be associated with the baby. Use treats and verbal praise often.
Habituation to a crate inside your home will also make the transition easier. Your dog may become stressed by the change in routine during the day and night, or the many visitors there to see the new arrival, so becoming comfortable in a crate now will be beneficial to all later.

Pregnancy 5-7 months
If mom-to be is the primary “dog walker” then start having a friend, spouse, or appropriate aged child start taking on that duty.
Introduce Kongs so your dog learns how to settle in for some quiet time in his new crate.
Also work on implementing a safe, confined area in the car if you’re not already doing so. This will ensure a safe ride for dog and baby.

Pregnancy 7-9 Months
Introduce anything that will be used by baby, including the “baby room”. If your canine family member will not be allowed into the baby’s room start using baby gates at this time and teaching boundaries.

Nursing/feeding time will certainly need to be a quiet, bonding time between Mother and baby. Practice putting your dog in their crate with a Kong
(Ideas for stuffing Kongs) while you’re sitting nearby reading a book or watching TV. They need to start learning now, how to quietly and comfortably be contained with family members in sight. Once they’re acclimated to this routine, adding “actual” baby to the scenario will be a snap.

Next month in
Part 2 of Babies & Dogs,
I’ll discuss techniques to use once the baby has arrived.

We usually get our pups at 7 or 8 weeks old, but most puppies are not enrolled in group classes until around 12 weeks old. That means we squander an entire month or more NOT teaching them necessary skills that enrich their learning capabilities. Those first few weeks are the most important! We can never get those training opportunities back.

It is simply not true that young puppies are unable to learn…to the contrary, at no other time in their life will learning be easier and more permanent!

The first several weeks the pup comes to live with us sets the stage for acceptable and unacceptable behaviors. Puppies are curious by nature and learn by association what works for them and what doesn’t.

Is it safe or unsafe?, pleasant or unpleasant?

That’s the criteria for puppy behaviors to happen again or not.

Often we think because we punished them for “bad” behavior (they’ll usually cower or tuck their tail which we incorrectly interpret as guilt) they should know better, but usually they simply learn that we are the unsafe and unpleasant variable, and learn to do things when we are not in view.

The way we handle these issues also impacts our leadership value. A real leader is benevolent, calm, and consistent; not reactive, loud and unpredictable. (Think of the parents you hear yelling at their kids in the store…or my pet peeve, the count down…

1—2—-3. Do you think, WOW, great leadership!)

However, if the puppies environment is managed, behavior you like is reinforced, easy everyday skills are trained and maintained, and they are exposed to lots of appropriate people and things, it sets you and you’re puppy up for success at home and better prepared to enter the world with some self-control, focus and manners already installed.

Even with the best intentions, I know it may seem overwhelming, especially if you have limited time and knowledge, but this is where a Professional Trainer (link to APDT.com) comes in:

They can come to your home, when it’s convenient for you, and make training your new pup easy to understand and easy for the entire family to implement.

I know at 8 weeks it seems impossible that your little angel could ever have “bad” behaviors, but a little prevention and training today will last a lifetime.

It may be our belief that our dogs are being stubborn, defiant, dominant or just plain stupid…but the real reasons are usually far more complex. Once you understand those reasons and how to work with them you can improve your communication and relationship with your dog, not to mention get a more reliable ‘sit’.

What is Generalization and how does it impact our dogs’ ability to perform commands?

Generalization refers to the ability to automatically apply knowledge to situations ‘in general’. Both people and dogs can have trouble generalizing.

Have you ever been at the grocery store and run into someone you know but found yourself unable to remember their name or even how you know them? This is a classic example how people often fail to generalize. We see a person out of the usual context and our minds are unable to connect the dots. Our own emotional state plays a role as well. Are we tired, stressed, or in a hurry to get somewhere?

Our dogs’ ability to automatically apply knowledge to situations in general is even worse than ours. They are contextual learners that rely on body language and environmental cues for most of their communication so any little change can confuse them.

When we teach our dogs to ‘sit’ we always teach it with them facing us. It’s such an easy behavior to learn that dog’s pick up the skill quickly and we think we’re trainers extrodinaire. But turn your back and say ‘sit’ or try to get them to sit next to you while walking. Often they will scoot around in front of you to sit or not sit at all and just look at you in confusion.

Why…because sit has always meant sit with you directly in front of them.

Now take your dog to a new location and ask him to Sit, once again you may get a look of total confusion or no look at all. Why…because your dog may be unable to recall what Sit means in this new place.

So…to teach your dog to generalize a command you need to practice in a variety of environments around a variety of distractions starting at low levels and graduating to higher levels. Start inside, then in the backyard. Once they’re reliable there (and only then), move up to another level of difficulty. The use of consistent hand signals with your verbal commands can help as well when starting at a new level of distraction. Many studies have shown that dogs respond faster and more reliably to hand signals than verbal commands.

So…now you know, your dog is not stubborn-not defiant-not dominant or stupid….

They’re just not fully trained yet!

I would try a medium to high meat based food (meat as the first ingredient) with a protein level of 30-40%. Sometimes dogs that have been on a chicken based diet do better switching to fish and potato
or buffalo and potato – or just something they have not had before to see if it improves.

The second thing I would do is add digestive enzymes. This is a virtually tasteless powder that you sprinkle on their food. It helps immensely with shedding, dry skin, body odor, bad breath and more.

The third would be adding salmon oil to your dogs’ food. There are scentless brands so you don’t have to use the fish gel caps that have a strong odor. That seems to be the only complaint from owner’s is the actual smell of the oil. If you can’t stand the smell or it makes the dog smell fishy (rare cases) you can use a flax blend- like flax/hemp or Dream Coat with uses several different oils and I have never heard of a smell issue with that.

After that it comes down to regular grooming, daily brushing or professional grooming to really get the excess hair out especially if your dog is a double coated breed.

If these things don’t help and the shedding is excessive then you may want to talk to your vet.
There are medical conditions such as a thyroid imbalance, etc. that can cause excessive fur loss.

Most dogs, however, are healthy dogs that simply shed more than we’d like. I hope these tips help.

Erin Walker
Dog Daze Natural Pet Market

If you have questions about appropriate foods, supplements, and grooming tools to best meet your dogs’ specific shedding needs visit Erin down at Dog Daze.

There are many flea remedies on the market that may be safer than even just a few years ago; however, anything that says “avoid contact with skin” is something I may think twice about putting on my dog.

These are some alternative suggestions:

Flea Facts

• Fleas are highly adaptable and can reproduce at an alarming rate. The lifespan of a flea is about 90 days and a single flea can lay as many as 60 eggs per day.
• Eggs take from 2 days to 2 weeks to hatch depending on temperature and humidity.
• Most fleas are living in your dog’s environment, rather than in its fur. Every flea found on your dog may mean approximately 30 more in your house.
• Most flea eggs are laid when humidity is high and temperatures are between 65°-85° F, and they prefer dark, moist environments.
• Fleas can be carriers of tapeworm.

Controlling the tiny beast:

First off, inspect your dog. Typically fleas will congregate around the base of the tail and belly. If you find small black particles in your dog’s coat, it is probably flea feces. If you’re unsure place a few on a damp paper towel. If they turn red, you have fleas to hunt down.

Diet- Good nutrition will reduce your dog’s susceptibility to fleas by increasing his immune system and encouraging a healthy skin and coat. Dry unhealthy skin causes itching and reactions to fleabites are more severe. The fleas didn’t cause the skin ailments; they only worsened a previously existing problem. By feeding a high-quality, natural diet, free of additives and preservatives, you improve your dogs health and increase protection from fleas.

Fatty acids that are rich in omega-3, like fish oil and flax seed oil, also promote a healthy coat and may help to combat inflammatory reactions caused by flea bites.

(Check my Resources & Tools page for Natural Health food stores).

Grooming- Bathe your dog weekly with a natural, mild shampoo (no chemical laden flea control shampoos please). Start at the neck and liberally lather the entire body. Leave on for at least five minute as the suds drown the fleas.

For most dogs five minutes in a tub is an eternity, so I always arm myself with small, tasty treats or better yet, a thin thin layer of peanut butter covering a plate? As I hold the plate for my dog to lick, the minutes tick away. Sneaky! And you’ve added a positive association to bath time.

Finish with a lemon rinse and allow to air dry. (Lemon rinse recipe: slice a whole lemon and drop into a pitcher of very hot water, allow to steep overnight…easy, huh?). The residual citrus odor is a flea repellant, and also helps tone unhealthy skin.

There are many great natural sprays containing other safe repellants such as: pennyroyal, neem & tea tree oil, eucalyptus, cedar wood, or lavender that I use daily as well. (Found at the natural health stores on Resources & Tools page.)

Flea combs are also effective. They remove fleas and help monitor the extent of your bug problem. Have a dish of soapy water near to drown any found fleas.

The Yard- Keep the flea population down in your yard by using beneficial Nematodes. These are microscopic worms that eat flea larvae and many other lawn infesting pests. They can be applied using a watering can or a sprayer attached to your hose. Place them in moist, shady spots around your house as nematodes nor fleas survive in hot sun. Many garden stores carry them (Watsons & the Windmill), as well as online sources.

The House- Vacuum often & thoroughly! I sprinkle a teaspoon or so of Diatomaceous earth (a desiccant which dehydrates fleas) on the floor and vacuum it up so any flea larvae are killed in the bag. Vacuum carpets, under furniture, beds and throw rugs, sofa cushions, corners and floorboards. This is where the majority of your problem lives. By breaking the flea’s lifecycle every few days they won’t be able to proliferate.

Once you’ve cleaned well apply Diatomaceous earth. It cuts through the flea’s exterior causing it to dehydrate and die. It’s safe to use around pets and children. Follow the package directions. I get mine from The Mud Bay Granary.

Wash any bedding the dog sleeps on 1-2 times per week in a hot soapy washing machine and dry in a hot dryer. I recommend choosing bedding that’s easy to wash often during flea season.

Daily I quickly sprits my dogs with a natural repellant that’s good for their skin and coat, and once a week I do flea prevention around the house, wash all the bedding, vacuum then re-apply the diatomaceous earth in the house and my vehicle. It really doesn’t take long and prevention is much easier than trying to eradicate a full on flea infestation!

Help from your veterinarian

Dogs can have an allergy to the saliva of a flea bite, so it may only take one bite to send your dog into an “itching, scratching” nightmare. For these dogs natural methods may not be sufficient to relieve the problem and you may need to speak to your vet about alternative treatment.

Good Luck and enjoy a healthy dog & flea free season.

Local

Emergency

• Animal Emergency Clinic (Tacoma) 24 hours/7 days wk.
• Animal Poison Control Center

Books @ Dogwise.com
Anything by any of these authors is excellent. These are just a few of my favorites.

• After you Get Your Puppy by Ian Dunbar
• How To Teach an Old Dog New Tricks by Ian Dunbar
• The Perfect Puppy by Gwen Bailey
• Canine Body Language, A photographic Guide by Brenda Aloff
• Complete Idiots Guide to Positive Dog Training by Pamela Dennison
• The Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson (This entire book is a MUST read, but the first 2 pages of chapter four are poignant)
• Excel-erated Learning by Pamela J. Reid Ph.D.

Other Publications
These newsletters are published by the top Veterinary colleges and Experts in the country. They are easy to read and packed with information on health, behavior & training. Well worth the subscription price.

• The Whole-Dog-Journal.com (a monthly guide to natural dog care and training)
• Your Dog (Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine @ Tufts University)
• Dog watch (Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine)

Website

• Positivedogs.com – Great links and articles from; Feeding a raw diet to the Truth about commercial pet foods, to training & more.
• doggonesafe.com – A non-profit organization dedicated to dog bite prevention. Many great articles for parents.
• dogStardaily.com – A daily Magazine for Dog Owners

“Come!!! I said COME!!” stomp, stomp, stomp…*@!!#  Dog.

Sound familiar?

Coming when called is the most critical of behaviors in my opinion. Not only can it be a life or death command, but nothing makes us angrier than having to stomp out in the wet grass in our slippers after our dog.

Kidding aside, if you have a dog that comes when called, regardless of the temptations and distractions the environment offers, then you have a dog you can go anywhere with, on leash or unleashed! And I must say…there is nothing better. I’ve attended seminars, conferences, researched, read, experimented with and put alot of thought into my Come When Called…Everytime! program.

A dog with great “trust” and motivation to work with the owner not against them, will have much more freedom…to be a dog. This program will take your dog through progressions of training, enabling them to come away from distractions.

Yea, life with your dog just got way better.

Your dogs’ may have one order when they’re inside and a different order outside. One dog may be dominant around toys, and another is dominant when the coveted resource is food. Even this can change depending on the dogs’ needs and motivations at the time!

Dominance = Priority Access to Valued Resources

Dominance is not a personality trait, rather it’s the state of a relationship with another dog or human. If a dog is dominant with respect to another dog, then he has more access to valued resources. If a dog is displaying dominant overtures, then he wants more access to the resource.

This is one of those misconceptions made by owners. They usually feel like the dog making the big ugly display of aggression is the “top” dog, but a true leader is calm quiet and confident…no need for all that bluster & bluff!
It’s the “wannabe” who makes the most noise.
(Sound like any bosses you’ve had in the past??)

Priority resources according to a dog is anything they need (survival) or want (pleasure):
Safety, food, high value treats (bones/chewies), toys, space (personal and territorial), people (owner), sleeping & comfort areas (the couch or bed), attention/petting, and other motivators such as tug or fetch, etc.

Your role, as the human in the household should be to dole out these resources. You are the keeper of the resources, which therefore makes you ‘Top’ dog.

I have the ‘stuff’ – Me boss!
You want the ‘stuff’ – You follower!

I know…that’s probably a bit simplistic but it really does not need to be difficult.
The canines in the household should be informed that ALL of the  highest rankings have been taken by you and the rest of the family including your children (and cats). This should make it easier on you and them. By simply taking the “lead” role from your dogs you will almost immediately start seeing a calmer, better behaved dog or group of dogs.

How do you do that? For starters, you don’t follow the old advice of giving food and attention to the “Alpha” dog first. That only reinforces your dogs’ to be bullies. And really, do you think because your dog exitedly runs through a door first he sees himself as king of the castle…or could it be something much less sinister as- he’s JUST excited to experience ‘what’s next!’.

That certainly doesn’t mean it’s fine for your dog to blast through you at will, to the contrary,
let’s teach them some:
Foundation Manners and  Attention, Focus & Self-Control
I don’t care if my buddies go through the door first, eat first or get on the bed…as long as I’ve given them the “OK” to do so.

Teach your dogs that speedy compliance to your cues (commands) gets them good “stuff” (remember the resources).
Great things happen by being polite and nothing good happens by being pushy with your family, guests or each other.

Welcome to effective, calm & enjoyable ‘dog’ leadership.

The new puppies cannot see, hear, regulate their own body temperatures, eliminate without stimulation and are totally dependent upon their mother.
No emotional development, social attachment, or learning takes  place during this period.  Puppies’ brain waves remain constant  whether sleeping or awake.

A study has shown that mildly stressing the pups during the first five weeks develops dogs that are superior in learning and competitive situations, are able to handle stress better and are more outgoing.
(Mild physical stress at any age will actually increase the size of the brain.)

Transition Period 13-21 days:

Puppies’ ears and eyes will gradually open. They will begin to hear and will respond to taste and smell. This is the time to introduce novel stimuli to the whelping box.

Awareness Period – 21 to 23 DAYS :

The puppy is able to use their sense of sight and hearing.
Learning begins!
There are significant changes in brain waves during this period and pups are now able to learn from experiences and retain what they have learned.

They are fully alert to their environment and will startle easily at sudden sounds and movements.  Avoid  loud noises or sudden changes during this period.  Negative events can permanently imprint on pups during this week.  No vacume cleaners, hair dryers, etc.
Social bonding begins to occur during this week.

Canine Socialization Period  (3wks-7wks) :
The puppy learns specific behaviors that make him a dog such as barking, chasing, biting and body postures.

Play fighting becomes increasingly intense.  Pups are developing problem solving abilities, physical co-ordination and bite inhibition. Puppies require plenty of playtime with littermates, so they can socialize and develop pack hierarchy through play.
They also learn to accept discipline from mama dog and to use submissive postures to appease.
Leaving the litter before 7 weeks can affect the puppy’s ability to get along with other dogs later and they will likely have trouble learning to inhibit the force of their bite and except discipline from their human family.

During this time puppies will begin to move to the far corners of their bed, box, or pen to urinate and defecate.  House breaking can begin!
Occasionally isolate puppies to prepare them for separation.
Puppy’s rate of mental development will now depend on the complexity of their environment. Exposure to a variety of noises and different floor surfaces is important.
Begin positive training sessions at 5 weeks. Yes—5 weeks!
The brain waves of the puppy are the same as a mature dog, but the puppy is a clean slate.
Puppies can begin simple training routines using food lures, verbal praise & attention at this time.  This is also the prime socialization period.  Introduce new people, especially children.  Introduce situations that will stimulate problem solving behavior – tunnels, cardboard boxes, gates, steps, fences, logs, etc.  Allow pups to have successes and reinforce these successes with food.

Fear Imprint Subperiod occurs between 8 and 10 weeks:

Experiences a puppy perceives as traumatic during this time are generalized and may affect him his entire life.
Puppies should not be shipped during this period, elective surgery should be put off until the 12th week, and necessary visits to the vet should be made fun.
Keep training short, positive & fun.

Human Socialization Period (7 wks-12 wks):
(This is when we step in and can have the greatest impact on our dogs!)

The puppy is enlarging his social awareness and bonding outside of the litter should occur. This is the best time to place a puppy in his new home.

Mental abilities are fully formed but the pups lack experience.
This is the optimum time to teach Puppy Manners and is, in fact, the period of fastest learning. Research has shown that behaviors can be shaped and modified most easily during times when learning is occurring most quickly.  Training during this time will actually increase the capacity to learn by increasing brain cells in the appropriate regions of the brain.
Bladder and bowel control is developed and pups are capable of sleeping through the night without an accident.
Note:  If socialized later than 14 weeks, (or between 12 -14 weeks in some dogs) shyness or aggressiveness may dominate behavior the rest of his life.
This is thought to be the #1 reason for behavior problems…lack of exposure to people, especially kids, dogs, etc.
Just because your puppy lives with another dog or there are 2 teenagers in the house DOES NOT mean he has been socialized. It needs to be several new dogs and people per week if not per day. This definitely takes some effort–but you basically only have a couple of weeks and then the window of opportunity closes. Procrastination may lead to extremely difficult fear/aggressive behaviors later.

Seniority Classification Period (3 to 4 months):
Otherwise known as the “age of the cutting’ teeth and apron strings. The pup is trying to figure out who is boss. If littermates are still together, there is intense competition.
So long as you provide structure, control and leadership, this transition should be relatively painless.

By 16 weeks of age the brain of a puppy will reach 80% of full development and his emotional makeup is fully developed and cemented for life, barring desensitization.
Do not put off training…you’re literally on the clock.

Teach a great RECALL and practice it everyday!!  Do this before pup enters the “flight period” at about 16 weeks.
Flight Instinct Period (4-8 months) :
Characterized by independence and wilfulness, this stage can last from a few days to several weeks and can occur anytime during this period.
Your once ‘obedient’ pup may not hang on your every word.
They may not play fetch even though they once did.
They may even forget “potty training” .
The pups will also be uncomfortable because their adult teeth are growing in.
Be aware these changes are coming, stay calm…and like all teenagers’ behaviors–
this too will pass. Thank goodness!
Note: A general persistence in behavior problems may occur during this time as well, and corrections become more difficult.
(Most of my phone calls for help come during this time.)

Second Fear Imprint period (6-14 months) :
(This stage leaves owners scratching their head at their dogs’ weird behaviors)

This fear period corresponds with hormonal changes & growth spurts.

To many owners’ dismay, (and even with stellar socialization early on) your usually confident pup may display fearfulness of new situations, objects, people or other dogs.
Many dogs will show a rise in their level of aggression/reactivity  during this time. They may become protective and territorial, and may make a new attempt to test owners.
Some individuals will pass through this period faster than others, often with no noticeable problems.  Others may display marked changes in behavior in strange situations.
Reinforce the behaviors you want; do not inadvertantly reinforce fearfulness by coddling, but also avoid punishing timidness or “forcing” them to face their fears.

A firm, patient leader is always what we should strive to be in any stage of our dogs’ development, but that resolve will never be put to the test more than this time in your relationship with your dog.
Postpone extremely stressful or traumatic experiences for dogs that appear to be in this fear imprint period.

Young Adulthood (18-24 months) :
Many dogs will show a rise in their level of aggression during this time. They may become protective and territorial, and may make a new attempt to test owners.
Also, if you missed any socialization or exposure early on to certain things, that may start to surface as well.

Emmy let me know a while back at Bradley Lake that I hadn’t socialized her to horses. They were giving free carriage rides, and little “miss obedience”  had herself a barking fit. Because Em and I have a history of getting her over her many demons, I was quickly able to convince her that horses made chicken appear. Who Knew!!?
(story of:Emmy’s aggressive past)

None of us is perfect and we’re bound to miss something somewhere…but hopefully understanding the physiological and emotional stages our dogs are going through, will give you the patience to handle the situations better.

Please call or email if you’d like guidance through any of these stages.
An hour of training—A lifetime of benefits!